Wednesday, 29 August 2012

Camping Sucks Less When Drinking Beer


That's my son.  Not me.

On my eighth birthday I had an epiphany so vivid that even now, thirty years later, I am able to bring it to my mind with crystal clear, Betamax clarity.  It was the heady summer of 1980 and the musical stylings of Freddie Mercury and Randy Crawford were battling for my affections.  For weeks I had pestered my mum and dad for a tent and finally I was granted my wish. 
The tent was a small, two-person vision in red and green manmade fibres.  It took six grown men four hours to assemble and that night, the night of my birthday, I was allowed to take a friend and sleep out until morning.  Needless to say it was a sobering early lesson in how disappointing life can be.  There really is nothing in the world like being woken up dry mouthed and sweaty, zipped inside a nylon sleeping bag that is itself locked within another and much larger sheet of nylon.  At that tender and impressionable age the names Mr. & Mrs. Smith meant a slightly dotty old couple who lived down the road but it was definitely within the confines of my first tent that my lifelong love of luxurious boutique hotels was formed.  My parents must have been very disappointed by my reluctance to ever use my birthday tent again but in that early morning sunrise, among the ants and spiders and biscuit crumbs and the terrible, terrible smells I made a solemn vow that I would never go camping again.
That was a vow I kept until two weeks ago when under relentless pressure from my two sons we bought a tent and went with friends to an Oxfordshire campsite not far from where I live.  In order to minimize the pain of the early morning wake up I decided that I would turn to nature in the form of old mother alcohol to see me through.  There has been a good deal of column inches devoted recently to the rise in sales of real ale so being the contentious food writer I thought I’d merge my need for booze and my approaching deadline by arranging a local beer tasting for my fellow campers. 
The rules for the tasting were simple.  I wanted beers from Buckinghamshire and Oxfordshire that I could get from a supermarket.  The tasting itself would be done blind with no one knowing what the beers were while they tasted.  The beers were as follows... Pride Of Oxford (£2), Hook Norton Twelve Days (£2.05), Rebellion (£2.15) and John Hampden from the Chiltern Brewery (£2.40).
So far, so good.  One note of caution for any budding food writers though is don't do it when your drunk.  Or at least if you do get drunk don't expect to be able to read your notes, or find your notes, or make any notes.  The upshot of all this is that the winner of the contest is lost in the mists of time and the haze of being a bit pissed.
As a footnote I would add that from what I can remember all the beers were delicious and an excellent way of alleviating the awfulness of the early morning campsite wake-up.  I slept soundly that night and woke refreshed and ready for what the day had in store.  I was reminded of the wisdom of bar owner and drunk Doug Coughlin, as played by the excellent Bryan Brown in the movie Cocktail, whose life motto was, “beer is for breakfast drink or begone".

Monday, 13 August 2012

Shallow Grave Cooking

Warning - this blog contains a picture of a severed pig's head (although it's not as bad as I've made that sound).

Spare the axe spoil the child
OK, this is going to get grisly.  For those of a weak or sensitive constitution I'm going to begin with the good stuff.  The picture below is pure porn.  Brawn porn.

And this little piggy went all wobbly
The problem is that to get to that deliciousness you have to start with this 


It all began in those far off, crisp and cold days that history will record as ‘just before Christmas’ when we acquired a pig at a party.  I want to make it absolutely clear that this is not a countryside version of throwing car keys into a bowl.  It was a perfectly normal and straightforward party celebrating the festive season where you take a bottle of wine and bring home some livestock. 

So, we tended and fed the pigs until the beginning of April and now, after some slightly more brutal ‘tending’ by the butcher, have a freezer full of sausages, bacon, chops, offal, trotters, roasting joints and, as you can see, the head.  The head I was particularly keen on getting because stock from a pig's head opens up a world of possiblities.

My one note of caution surrounding the making of a batch of pigs' head stock is to make sure you have a pan big enough to take the head.  Even though the head was split it was still a little too big for my pans and so it required a bit more *ahem* trimming.  Now the thing about the head of a mammal is that it is full of bone and teeth and so cutting it is a little bit tricky.  My knives were inadequate so I took to the shed and had my pick of tools.  I narrowed the choice down to an axe, a small saw and the hedge trimmers before settling on the axe ( a wise move I think).

My other problem was that while I was making the stock I was also looking after my kids on a sunny, summer afternoon.  Now, whilst I want my children to be aware of the realities of what goes into a plate of meat, I also recognise that the image of their father smashing an axe through a pig's jaw could result in a good deal of therapy later in life.  

So, to recap.  

1. Pig's head, carrots, celery, onion, bay leaf, peppercorns and salt boiled together for a couple of hours make a delicious stock for soup and the perfect base for brawn.

2. On balance, a paddling pool is a better way for a six year old to spend the afternoon than being the Ewan McGregor to your Christopher Ecclestone (Pig = Keith Allen in the Shallow Grave metaphor BTW)



Tuesday, 19 June 2012

In Search Of Perfection




The bunting is down, the complaints to the BBC sent off and my red, white and blue knickers washed and folded away.  The Diamond Jubilee has come and gone and the conveyor belt of this year’s events trundles on, bringing the Olympics into view.  I’m not going to lie to you, we’ve been pals too long for that, but I’m not much of a royalist.  However, I did enjoy the spirit of  friendliness and community that seemed to break out across the four corners of the Isle.  People in towns and villages tipped their caps to neighbours and strangers alike, grown men were allowed to paint the faces of small children they didn’t know without social services getting involved but if there was a more fitting tribute to Her Maj than Zoo magazine’s “Topless Diamond Boobilee” then I don’t want to know about it.

During the celebrations I heard a story about a certain member of the royal family and a certain foodstuff.  Don’t worry though, it’s not like the story about the certain member of the royal family and the glass-topped coffee table.  I can’t be entirely sure of the truth of the story so I will change names to protect the innocent.  Let’s just call this royal personage “Prince C” (a.k.a The Welshman a.k.a Grumpy Architect).  Actually, whether or not the story is true is unimportant because like all stories it leads us to a bigger truth.

Apparently, “Prince C” (a.k.a FA Cup Head a.k.a The Kilt) loves a boiled egg for breakfast.  And who can blame him?  A boiled egg can be a perfectly wonderful breakfast if the white is set just so and the yolk warm and runny.  Personally I also favour a few buttered soldiers that, when dipped push the yolk up and over the lip of the cracked shell like a teensy, non life-threatening volcano.

In my life, this morning perfection happens rarely.  What with using eggs that are a bit old, or making sure the kids have got their breakfast, by the time I sit down to eat, my eggs are usually a bit under or over done.  I would contest though that it is the memory of these crappy eggs that makes the moment I get it spot on all the more delicious. 

Here’s the deal with the prince.  His staff are so keen that he should have his every whim attended to that every time “Prince C” (a.k.a The Polo Prince a.k.a Baldychops) wants a boiled egg for breakers his cook makes him six.  Each egg is then cut open and inspected, five are discarded and the one that most matches the prince’s idea of eggy perfection is served to him.

So, just in case you missed it, each time Prince C (a.k.a Veg Talker a.k.a Overpriced Biscuits) has a boiled egg for breakfast it is perfect.  My question is this.  If the only time you have a boiled egg it is perfect, can you truly appreciate the perfect boiled egg?

Friday, 18 May 2012

My Favourite Apple Pie Recipe...

that reveals a truth about the universe...


Recipe To Create Universe

65 tbsp dark energy
30 tbsp dark matter
4 tbsp free hydrogen and helium
1/2 tbsp stars
1/3 tbsp ghostly neutrinos
0.03 tbsp heavy elements


Sunday, 5 February 2012

Coffee & Some Danish.



Over recentweeks, I have become the weeniest bit obsessed with coffee.  Personally, I blame the time ofyear.  Gazing, bleary-eyed into mymorning mug, the darkness of the winter is reflected perfectly in the slowblack sloe black pitch of my early cuppa Joe (incidentally did you know that itIS a ‘cuppa’ Joe and not a ‘cup of’ Joe as the GIs stationed in Britain adoptedour slangy way of saying ‘cuppa’ tea and used it for their coffee).  It seems perverse given theassociations of speed that we give to a shot of caffeine but I think thatslowness and coffee are made for each other.  I had a wonderful lesson in the benefits of slowcoffee-making given to me a couple of months ago by Elliot Wallis fromMonkshood Coffee
This is notthe only reason for my coffee compulsion. I was recently bought the box set of first series of The Killing.  If you haven’t seen it then you mustbecause it is a brilliant Danish drama about a murder investigation.  It was made a bit famous because of thelead detective’s love of knitwear. However, the series really should be made famous for it’s infatuationwith the Arabica bean because if there’s one thing that they do a lot of in TheKilling,it’s drink coffee.  If you thoughtwe love coffee what with all our Costa this and Starbucks that then you need tohave a word with yourself.  TheDanes drink coffee like we stand in queues, except they do it better.  Hardly anyone in The Killing has any alcohol, thereare only a couple of times in the 24 hour-long episodes where we see peopledrinking booze but coffee is consumed all the time. It is the blood that pumpsthrough the arteries of Copenhagen and is used as a plot driver, a prop for theaction and a metaphor all at once. One of the lead characters is a politician who drinks coffee withglorious delight as he fires half of his cabinet, each sacking punctuatedanother ruthless sip.  Each tablein The Killing, whether corporate or family, has another shiny devicefor warming coffee, or blending coffee or enjoying coffee in some new andwondrous way.
I apologise here and now to anyonewho comes into contact with me over the next few weeks because this coffeefixation is not going anywhere.  Ihave just received season two of The Killing and am currently wading through series one of the Danish political drama, Borgen.  Then after that there’s a new series called The Bridge and after thatthere’ll be time for Borgen 2.  Then Borgen 3. Right now I talk about not much else and I am aware how boring it hasbecome.  I am truly, truly sorry.  Tak.

Thursday, 2 February 2012

The Best Soup In The World




Everyone is going mad for chicken soup at the moment so I thought I'd share my fave.  This is a recipe I wrote for a friend's cookbook.

For the stock:
A free-range chicken
2 onions
2 sticks celery
2 carrots
Black peppercorns
Salt

For the soup:
Fish sauce
Lemons
Chilli flakes
1 tin of coconut milk
A bunch of coriander
Some spinach leaves
Dried noodles

This is absolutely my favourite meal in the world.  This would be my desert island dish and is the one that I dream about most.  It is, in short, the most kick-ass bowl of food you’ll ever make.

I use a whole chicken for the stock simply because you get a wonderful, rich flavour that you just don’t get from a stock made from a roasted carcass.  It might sound a bit extravagant but it is totally worth it.  You can siphon off and freeze some to make a risotto with so you’ll get at least two meals out of this.

So, first things first and make the stock.  Put your chicken in a big pan with a tight fitting lid, chop the onions, carrots and celery into quarters and add them to the chicken.  Then cover the whole lot with water.  Season with salt and add a few pinches of black peppercorns.  Bring to the boil then simmer with the lid on for about an hour and a half.  Remove from the heat, take out the chicken and set aside then strain the stock and discard the flavouring vegetables.

When you make the soup remember that you’re trying to get a balance of the four S’s; sweet (coconut milk), sour (lemons), salty (fish sauce) and spicy (chilli).  The balance is totally down to your taste so my advice is loosely follow the recipe but keep tasting it and adapt it to your own preference.

So, return the stock to a medium heat and to it add about a teaspoon and a half of chilli flakes, the juice of three lemons (or more or less if you like), about ten shakes of fish sauce and a tin of coconut milk.  Give it about 15 minutes, taste and adjust these flavours to your taste.  When you’re happy, chop up the coriander leaves and add to the soup then give it a blitz with a hand blender.  After you’ve done this, rehydrate the noodles as per the instructions on the packet and take all the meat off the chicken.  Then serve by placing some noodles in a deep bowl, then on top of these put some raw spinach leaves (the heat of the soup will wilt them just so), place some shredded chicken on the spinach and ladle over some of the soup.  Serve with a spoon and some chopsticks and enjoy the best bowl of soup you’ll ever have.  

Monday, 30 January 2012

Drinkie..? Nibbles..? Pig..?

Just before Christmas I went to a party and bought a pig.  I would like to make it clear that this wasn't a 'buying a pig' party.  I merely happened to get chatting to someone who had a pig to sell and if there's one thing I am always in the market for it's a bit of livestock.  

Last year we had a sheep that we lovingly called Minty before we lovingly took him to a slaughterhouse, lovingly paid someone else to kill and butcher him before we lovingly ate every delicious bit of him, lovingly.  I have been banned from naming the pig (although secretly I call him Ian).  I'm already dreaming of making my own cured ham, sausages, black pudding and brawn.

Ian
This is my favourite picture of Minty.  Isn't he lovely..?