Wednesday 29 August 2012

Camping Sucks Less When Drinking Beer


That's my son.  Not me.

On my eighth birthday I had an epiphany so vivid that even now, thirty years later, I am able to bring it to my mind with crystal clear, Betamax clarity.  It was the heady summer of 1980 and the musical stylings of Freddie Mercury and Randy Crawford were battling for my affections.  For weeks I had pestered my mum and dad for a tent and finally I was granted my wish. 
The tent was a small, two-person vision in red and green manmade fibres.  It took six grown men four hours to assemble and that night, the night of my birthday, I was allowed to take a friend and sleep out until morning.  Needless to say it was a sobering early lesson in how disappointing life can be.  There really is nothing in the world like being woken up dry mouthed and sweaty, zipped inside a nylon sleeping bag that is itself locked within another and much larger sheet of nylon.  At that tender and impressionable age the names Mr. & Mrs. Smith meant a slightly dotty old couple who lived down the road but it was definitely within the confines of my first tent that my lifelong love of luxurious boutique hotels was formed.  My parents must have been very disappointed by my reluctance to ever use my birthday tent again but in that early morning sunrise, among the ants and spiders and biscuit crumbs and the terrible, terrible smells I made a solemn vow that I would never go camping again.
That was a vow I kept until two weeks ago when under relentless pressure from my two sons we bought a tent and went with friends to an Oxfordshire campsite not far from where I live.  In order to minimize the pain of the early morning wake up I decided that I would turn to nature in the form of old mother alcohol to see me through.  There has been a good deal of column inches devoted recently to the rise in sales of real ale so being the contentious food writer I thought I’d merge my need for booze and my approaching deadline by arranging a local beer tasting for my fellow campers. 
The rules for the tasting were simple.  I wanted beers from Buckinghamshire and Oxfordshire that I could get from a supermarket.  The tasting itself would be done blind with no one knowing what the beers were while they tasted.  The beers were as follows... Pride Of Oxford (£2), Hook Norton Twelve Days (£2.05), Rebellion (£2.15) and John Hampden from the Chiltern Brewery (£2.40).
So far, so good.  One note of caution for any budding food writers though is don't do it when your drunk.  Or at least if you do get drunk don't expect to be able to read your notes, or find your notes, or make any notes.  The upshot of all this is that the winner of the contest is lost in the mists of time and the haze of being a bit pissed.
As a footnote I would add that from what I can remember all the beers were delicious and an excellent way of alleviating the awfulness of the early morning campsite wake-up.  I slept soundly that night and woke refreshed and ready for what the day had in store.  I was reminded of the wisdom of bar owner and drunk Doug Coughlin, as played by the excellent Bryan Brown in the movie Cocktail, whose life motto was, “beer is for breakfast drink or begone".

Monday 13 August 2012

Shallow Grave Cooking

Warning - this blog contains a picture of a severed pig's head (although it's not as bad as I've made that sound).

Spare the axe spoil the child
OK, this is going to get grisly.  For those of a weak or sensitive constitution I'm going to begin with the good stuff.  The picture below is pure porn.  Brawn porn.

And this little piggy went all wobbly
The problem is that to get to that deliciousness you have to start with this 


It all began in those far off, crisp and cold days that history will record as ‘just before Christmas’ when we acquired a pig at a party.  I want to make it absolutely clear that this is not a countryside version of throwing car keys into a bowl.  It was a perfectly normal and straightforward party celebrating the festive season where you take a bottle of wine and bring home some livestock. 

So, we tended and fed the pigs until the beginning of April and now, after some slightly more brutal ‘tending’ by the butcher, have a freezer full of sausages, bacon, chops, offal, trotters, roasting joints and, as you can see, the head.  The head I was particularly keen on getting because stock from a pig's head opens up a world of possiblities.

My one note of caution surrounding the making of a batch of pigs' head stock is to make sure you have a pan big enough to take the head.  Even though the head was split it was still a little too big for my pans and so it required a bit more *ahem* trimming.  Now the thing about the head of a mammal is that it is full of bone and teeth and so cutting it is a little bit tricky.  My knives were inadequate so I took to the shed and had my pick of tools.  I narrowed the choice down to an axe, a small saw and the hedge trimmers before settling on the axe ( a wise move I think).

My other problem was that while I was making the stock I was also looking after my kids on a sunny, summer afternoon.  Now, whilst I want my children to be aware of the realities of what goes into a plate of meat, I also recognise that the image of their father smashing an axe through a pig's jaw could result in a good deal of therapy later in life.  

So, to recap.  

1. Pig's head, carrots, celery, onion, bay leaf, peppercorns and salt boiled together for a couple of hours make a delicious stock for soup and the perfect base for brawn.

2. On balance, a paddling pool is a better way for a six year old to spend the afternoon than being the Ewan McGregor to your Christopher Ecclestone (Pig = Keith Allen in the Shallow Grave metaphor BTW)